Once the car was loaded we drove to Java Kai for breakfast. The line snaked out the door but the boys had books to read (in fact, there were many occasions on this trip where we had to drag them away from their reading to go have Hawaiian adventures) so they snagged a table and waited, noses happily buried.
I opted for the breakfast sandwich while Sam chose the papaya and granola with a bagel and we ordered a plate of waffles for the kids to share (conveniently enough, the order came as two mini waffles). I also got my Hydroflask filled with hibiscus black tea while Sam had a regular coffee.
Everything was fresh and delicious and we enjoyed sitting out front watching Kapa'a wake up. When we were finished we walked around the back of the building to Kauai Juice Company to refill the Hydroflask with their delicious kombucha.
The boys love sampling all the flavors and since it was Thursday, we got a free shot with our order. Sam bravely downed the turmeric, carrot and chili pepper water in one gulp. I wish I had gotten a picture of his face after that flavor bomb...
I was tempted to buy another stainless growler like the one we picked up last summer, but really - how many kombucha growlers does one family need?!
Fed and juice-filled, we climbed back in the car and headed north. I had finally downloaded the GyPSy app for Kauai - we've used it on Maui and the Big Island, but I didn't think we needed it for Kauai. The kids (and us) really enjoy listening to the narrator and it's a nice change of pace, so I wasn't surprised when Ryan asked to listen to it.
Princeville Ranch had called me a few days earlier to confirm our reservation and give us driving directions. I vaguely recalled seeing the signs and banners for the check in area, but couldn't quite pinpoint the location - and of course I didn't write anything down. I knew we didn't check in at the stables themselves, but once we drove past them, I second-guessed myself as to where we were headed. A few moments of backtracking finally got us to the check in location, where we were then directed to drive back to the stables. It seems like this process could be a little more streamlined, for sure!
Anyway, we finally got to the stables to meet our guide Hi'ilani and the other family (parents and a teenager) who we would be riding with. I have little horseback riding experience and the kids have never been, but Sam worked on a ranch when he was in school in Montana. He initially planned to pack his cowboy boots and jeans until I convinced him that the hiking and waterfall part of the adventure would be better accomplished in the Keen sandals we rented from the check in desk.
Hi'ilani gave us a brief lesson on using the reins, but honestly, these horses were so tame and gentle they could have done the whole ride without any input from us! Jack was a little nervous at first and told me he wanted to ride with me, but they put him on a sweet horse name Sarge and he was good to go. Ryan surprised me with his enthusiasm - I don't think the big grin left his face the whole time. I also had a big grin as Sizzler was the perfect size and temperament for me.
The ride is billed as "not just another nose-to-tail ride" and indeed we were told we could spread out off the trail - but the horses were perfectly happy to stay right on the packed path and it was a bit of an ordeal to get them to go anywhere else.
Still, it was such an incredible experience! We got to see part of the island we wouldn't have access to otherwise, and Hi'ilani was friendly and kind, giving gentle instruction when needed. What made this ride even more fun was that about an hour after we started riding, we headed down a curving path to a hitching rail, where Hi'ilani tied up the horses and helped us dismount. We then hiked up and then down stairs carved into the hillside that led to a waterfall and swimming hole. Along the way, Hi'ilani picked and sliced a mountain apple for us to taste.
Unlike Secret Falls, we had this swimming hole all to ourselves. Also unlike Secret Falls, the pool at the base was 30 feet deep, so there was no easing in - you had to just go for it. We were allowed to climb up behind the waterfalls and all around the rocks - which were really slippery, so we had to mind where we put our feet. After riding in long sleeves and pants across open fields, it felt great to strip down to our swimsuits and cool off.
We ate and then changed back into our riding clothes for the return hike and ride. I thought we would go back the way we came (and was dreading climbing all those stairs we had hiked down) but it turns out we had one more adventure ahead of us. We climbed stairs that took us to the top of the falls, where we clipped harnesses (human, not horse) to a safety line and then crossed the stream.
Once across the stream, we clipped our harness to a pulley system that ratcheted us up a small cliff, Hi'ilani on belay below. We hiked along the stream, crossing back over once again, before climbing stairs up to where the horses were tethered.
We rode back to the stables with clouds gathering over the mountains, which cooled us off nicely and made for a dramatic photo backdrop.
Tired but happy, we returned the rented shoes, tipped the staff, and piled in the car to head to Hanalei with a stop at the Princeville Foodland grocery store on the way.
While the kids were excited to shoot off fireworks, I was excited to spend time with Cynthia and Wayne, a couple we had met back in 2016 when they rented the cottage next to ours on Baby Beach. I had already "met" Cynthia on TripAdvisor and I appreciated her thoughtful responses to forum posts. Retired, they have the great fortune to spend 3 weeks every July on the island, and have raised their kids and grandkids on the tradition.
When I started planning this trip, the first thing I did was message Cynthia through TripAdvisor to find out when they would be in Hanalei (our 2018 travel dates didn't match up and I was so disappointed). Happily, they already had their reservations for a little beachfront cottage in Hanalei and invited us to spend the 4th with them and their family.
We braved the Foodland to pick up grillables (and a package of firework tanks that Safeway hadn't had) and drove to Hanalei. The county is still repairing sections of road that were damaged in the April 2018 floods (and then re-damaged in later weather events) so there was a bit of a slowdown between Princeville and Hanalei, but we didn't have to stop.
Cynthia and Wayne met us with open arms and we immediately headed to the beach, where we met their kids, who are our age. Hanalei Bay is one of my kids' favorite places to boogie board because the waves crash relatively gently on the sloping shoreline, but today the bay looked like a swimming pool. Ryan and Jack didn't care, they were in the water before we could even set up our beach chairs.
We chatted with everyone while the boys splashed around, commenting on how few people were at the beach today. Last year there were crowds circling the bay and parking was a nightmare, but it did not seem to be the case this year (and I'm not complaining!). At one point I walked over to Big Save to get hot dog buns, and while the store was busy as you would expect on a holiday, it was not jam-packed.
By the time I returned to the cottage, the grill was on and dinner was in the final stages of preparation. Ryan and Jack could not contain their excitement and barely touched their food before heading back to the beach with Cynthia's teenaged grandkids to set up the battles.
Finally we all went down to start the bonfire and get the firework party started. We were joined by some local families who live nearby who Cynthia and Wayne have befriended in their years of visiting. Then it was every Army man for himself.
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| My favorite part of the fireworks is watching the glorious sunset behind Bali Hai |
There was a party starting at Pine Trees park with disco lights and electronic dance music that kept drawing the teenagers away, and knowing we still had to drive back to Kapa'a tonight, we cleaned up the fireworks mess and loaded everything back into the car.
We had plans to visit Ke'e beach on Saturday, so we said goodbye to everyone and made plans to see Cynthia and Wayne again in a couple days.
The drive back was uneventful at 10:30 pm and we were soon tucked in bed, pleasantly exhausted from another day's adventures.
